Revisiting Rottnest Island

By June Ramli

Over the recent long weekend, I revisited Rottnest Island in Western Australia for the fourth time.
Having previously visited in 2017, 2018, and 2019, my most recent trip on Sunday, October 6, revealed significant changes on the island, some of which were unexpected.
One of the most noticeable changes was the surge in tourism.
The island now attracts far more visitors than during my previous trips, with 823,441 people arriving by ferry in the last financial year (2023-24).

This influx has led to major developments, including new hotels and an expanded jetty to accommodate the growing crowds.
While this growth may benefit the local economy, it has also altered the island’s once-quiet charm.
The most disheartening change, however, was the noticeable decline in the quokka population—or at least their visibility.
During past visits, these adorable marsupials were a constant presence, eagerly posing for selfies with tourists.
This time, though, I saw only a few, primarily in busy areas where tourists were still feeding them despite the regulations.

According to the Rottnest Island Authority, “feeding and touching of any wildlife is not permitted,” and ranger patrols are conducted daily to enforce this rule under the Rottnest Island Regulations 1988. Unfortunately, I witnessed several instances where this was ignored, with visitors feeding quokkas in hopes of capturing that perfect selfie.
Quokkas, once easily spotted across the island, now seem harder to find.
The Rottnest Island Management Plan 2023-28 emphasizes that “all visitors are asked to observe quokkas from a distance, let them forage for their own food, and stay on the foot and cycle paths.”
While this approach is necessary for their health and protection, it highlights the challenge of balancing tourism with wildlife preservation.

Despite these challenges, Rottnest still offers moments of natural beauty.
One highlight of this trip was visiting Cathedral Rocks, where I observed seals basking in the sun—a rare and awe-inspiring experience.
Unlike my previous visits, where I cycled around the island, this time I opted for the $30 hop-on-hop-off bus service.
The bus makes 19 stops and runs every 20 minutes, allowing visitors to explore different parts of the island with ease.
This service was convenient and a nice way to experience the island without worrying about bike rentals or fatigue.
The Rottnest Island Authority is working hard to manage the balance between environmental conservation and the increasing number of tourists.

A spokesperson noted that “the Rottnest Island Management Plan 2023-28 outlines key environmental strategies for managing the island and its waters, including island revegetation to provide native animal habitat and food sources.”
The plan also includes “active management of priority fauna to maintain biodiversity and ongoing environmental monitoring to inform management decisions.”
These efforts are essential to preserve the island’s unique ecosystems while ensuring visitors can still enjoy what Rottnest has to offer.
Still, the development around the Rottnest Hotel, which was bustling with tourists, felt overwhelming.
I only saw one quokka roaming freely.
I also had a meal at Lontara, a Southeast Asian restaurant on the island.
While the food was tasty, it was overpriced, and unless you have two hours to spare for their endless lunch menu, I wouldn’t recommend it.
As I reflect on my experience, I’m left feeling conflicted about Rottnest’s future.
While I appreciate the efforts to preserve the island’s natural environment, the sheer scale of development and the noticeable reduction in wildlife leave me uncertain about returning.
“By increasing the dispersal of visitors across the island, RIA can maintain the environmental values of specific sites while enabling visitors to have a more enriching interaction with the environment,” says the Rottnest Island Authority.
This is crucial as Rottnest remains a place of natural beauty and abundance—I even spotted a whale while heading to the island from Fremantle.
However, with ongoing development and a seemingly dwindling quokka population, it’s unclear whether Rottnest can maintain the balance between preserving its charm and accommodating increasing tourism.
The island’s future appeal will depend on how well it navigates this delicate balance.

Getting There

Reaching Rottnest Island is easy and convenient, with ferry services departing from Fremantle, Perth’s Barrack Street Jetty, and Hillary’s Boat Harbour. My ferry trip to the island, sponsored by the Rottnest Island Authority, departed from Fremantle’s B Shed. The journey took approximately 30 minutes, offering scenic views along the way, including a brief sighting of a whale, which was a memorable highlight of the trip.
Ferry services operate regularly throughout the day, and tickets can be booked in advance to secure your spot. Whether you’re visiting for the day or planning to stay overnight, the ferry ride is a great way to begin your Rottnest adventure.